Semole 'Pru' Mooka is a designer who is challenging our conceptions
of what is pretty, what makes a woman look beautiful and the type of body that
is usually associated with those two adjectives. Her label, Revelation Fashion,
caters mainly to plus-size women: designer garments made in order to make the
fuller-figured woman look and feel elegant. Krishen caught up with her to chat
about her deep passion for designing for the plus-size figure. We wanted to
delve deeper into this rather neglected area of fashion and see exactly why
Semole is so excited to be at the forefront of it.
Semole is currently hard at work completing her collection
for the opening show of SA Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2015. Fashion week will
kick off with the Renault New Talent Search Competition (in association with
Sunday Times Fashion Weekly) – a showcase of talented young designers with
their sights set on establishing a name in the industry.
As with every competition, there are rules. Semole expressed her disappointment that she was not able to showcase her designs for plus-size figures. ‘The size I start with is a size 38, yet the rules of the competition require the designs to be submitted and created for a size 34 figure.’ As Semole is passionate about designing for the larger figure, she had to go back to the drawing board and reconfigure her designs for smaller frames. ‘I had to go back to patterns that I used at school. I had to modify quite a few things. You will see some succinct details that will flatter the plus-size figure but it doesn’t detract from the design at all,’ she explained. She understands that specific models need to be used for all the designers participating in the competition and that she could not deviate from the prescribed size. Exuding confidence and a resilience required in this industry, Semole said that she viewed it as a challenge as it motivates her to work harder to have a show of her own at the next fashion week.
As with every competition, there are rules. Semole expressed her disappointment that she was not able to showcase her designs for plus-size figures. ‘The size I start with is a size 38, yet the rules of the competition require the designs to be submitted and created for a size 34 figure.’ As Semole is passionate about designing for the larger figure, she had to go back to the drawing board and reconfigure her designs for smaller frames. ‘I had to go back to patterns that I used at school. I had to modify quite a few things. You will see some succinct details that will flatter the plus-size figure but it doesn’t detract from the design at all,’ she explained. She understands that specific models need to be used for all the designers participating in the competition and that she could not deviate from the prescribed size. Exuding confidence and a resilience required in this industry, Semole said that she viewed it as a challenge as it motivates her to work harder to have a show of her own at the next fashion week.
Asked about where her passion for designing specifically for
the larger frame has emanated from, Semole explained that it all had to do with
need: she struggled to find items that took her own body shape and size into
account. The proportions were always slightly off and it made for poor-fitting
garments. In addition to sources of inspiration close to home, Semole has done
her research on this particular market. It might be possible to find very
expensive items at certain boutiques or alternatively to find rather dull and
drab items at more reasonable prices for plus-size frames. And even though
Semole acknowledges that there are certain stores catering to this market, she
still feels that there is a lack of designer items – those with a bespoke
quality – available for plus-size women. ‘Finding out the psychology of
plus-size women, what do they want, at what price-point and where are they
getting what they are actually wearing,’ were all factors identified by Semole
as crucial to the success of her brand. Her
clients are proof that a brand such as Revelation Fashion is much needed: she
has had very emotional responses when it was time to reveal the final
product. She has even had straight-sized
women asking for her designs from the ready-to-wear range and criticizing her for
reverse discrimination!
These particular ladies might be happy to see what Semole
showcases at the upcoming Fashion Week. So what can we expect from her
collection? Semole has taken inspiration from African craft,
with a collection entitled Mayibuye.
She shared that she has been watching reruns of Shaka Zulu and that we might
hear distant sounds of drums when we see her collection! However, this is not
African inspiration that one would see at a craft market or curios store: not simply
a Western conceptualisation of African design. Instead, Semole aims to ‘bring
African design back to Africa’ by producing a stylish and sophisticated collection
making use of age-old techniques, prints and patterns with a modern flair.
There is liberal use of natural fabrication, patchwork and rustic asymmetry as
well as fine crafting that has taken hours to perfect.
We will be there to experience Semole’s collection on the
opening night of SA Fashion Week. And judging by the little sneak preview we’ve
been given, this will definitely be a name to remember!
Catch some excerpts taken from the interview below:
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