SAFW A/W 15 - Clive Rundle

Possibly one of the most anticipated shows at SA Fashion Week is the seasonal Clive Rundle show.  Clive is renowned for his creative edge and he never fails to surprise.  This year was no exception.  We were delighted to have been afforded the opportunity of putting a few questions to the notoriously media-shy Clive about his design philosophy and his latest collection.

Photos : SA Fashion Week

"I draw upon life for my inspiration and watch what people are doing and wearing around me.  Nothing is constant." Clive explained.  "My philosophy when it comes to balancing creativity with wearability  is to look at it this way - although consumer trends change (as we saw during the recent economic downturn) and the bigger retailers take over fashion, the more discerning buyer will look elsewhere for something unique. My unique way of doing things will hopefully appeal to these buyers."

Photos : SA Fashion Week

Clive is famous for his woman's-wear but what is his view on clothing designed specifically for the male fashion market?  "I find younger men are not afraid to experiment with colour - they are not afraid of what I call a 'pantone explosion' - and, thanks to these young men, colour has become genderless."

Photos : SA Fashion Week

"My latest collection is aimed at the kind of woman who would be as easy addressing the United Nations as she would be clubbing and having a night out. She would understand what is unique and the value thereof."

As one of the longest-serving designers in the fashion community, we asked Clive what advice he would give to the new generation.  "Don't assume your three of four year degree buys you a stake in the market place.  Experiment and look for experience of any kind - including life itself."

SAFW A/W 15 - Leigh Schubert

Leigh Schubert's Autumn/Winter Collection stuck to a very regimental colour palate of blue, white and this season's hot-colour, yellow.  The collection embodied the designer's preference for clean lines with texture created by pleats, ruffles and appliques.

The clothing on show once again highlighted the current trend for over-sizing and overlaying creating a silhouette that seemed to ignore the female form.

Photos :  SA Fashion Week

Photos : SA Fashion Week

Photos : SA Fashion Week

A MONTH IN PINK - Polo Pink Pony and Craft Bra Run

Not only is October the month of both of our birthdays, it is also the month of pink (how fitting). October was dedicated to cancer awareness, specifically awareness of breast cancer. This was symbolized by the pink ribbon, which was seen so frequently this month. We attended a few events to raise greater awareness of early detection and seeking out help as soon as possible.

POLO Pink Pony Brunch

We thoroughly enjoyed the POLO Pink Pony brunch held at the Kyalami Equestrian Park in support of the Cancer Association of South Africa (CANSA), which was spent watching the POLO Spring/Summer Fashion Show during the dressage trials. In addition, there was an amazing display by Lipizzaner horses. In addition, the morning was kicked off by an inspirational message by cancer survivor, Eddy Rust. His inspirational story reflected that cancer can be beaten and that it’s important not to lose hope. 

Arriving at the POLO Pink Pony with our touches of pink

Other guests who looked pretty in pink included (from left):
Petra Laranjo Hourquebie and Jen Su

Eddy Rust sharing his inspirational message

The splendid Lipizzaner horse display

Thanks to POLO for great prizes!
Seen here with (from left):
Tamerin Jardine and Chantal Rutter Dros

CRAFT Bra Run 

Towards the end of the month, we participated in the Craft Bra Run; this was a fun way of drawing attention to a serious health threat. Women and men were encouraged to run in their bras to make the message more visual. In addition, Pink Drive Mobile Clinic testing vehicles were on site to encourage women to learn how to perform breast self-examination techniques. Of course, the duo proudly marched down 4^th avenue in hot pink bras to support a good cause (and because secretly, we’ve always wanted to!)

Catching a quick coffee before donning our bras

A sea of pink ready to descend upon Parkhurst's 4th Avenue

Jonathan Boynton-Lee and Shashi Naidoo were there to show their support
We loved Jonathan's choice of bra

Actress Stevie French
- a slight cop out on her bra but we loved these shirts

We had an awesome morning
And looked good in our bras too!

SAFW A/W 15 - Naked Ape/Chartu/Ephymol

After the menswear competition it was back to business with collections from more established menswear designers.  The second show consisted of the autumn/winter ranges from three designers who are no strangers to SA Fashion Week.

Naked Ape by Shaldon Kopman  started the ball rolling.  The colour palate was clearly autumnal with touches of burnt orange, caramel and red highlighting the predominant neutral hues.  We were particularly blown away by the amazing shoes worn on the runway - consisting of fabric co-ordinating with the sophisticated tweeds used on the trousers.

Photos :  Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

Chartu by Mike Narainsamy - the Narainsamy label has become one of Durban's most noted menswear labels.  This season the new label "Chartu" was introduced which celebrates Mike Narainsamy's love for the essence of life.  The one thing we always admire from this designer is the love of symmetry he embodies in every suit created.  It's really a case of "what you see is what you get" - but the cut of his suits and the use of interesting colour combinations gave a very modern silhouette to the range.

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

Ephymol never disappoints when it comes to blending vibrant colour with exquisite tailoring and the latest collection from Ephraim Molingoane did not disappoint.  Layering was very much in evidence and we particularly enjoyed the assymetrical blazers on view.  This was a lovely twist and lifted the collection above some of the others on show.  A big thumbs up!

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

SAFW A/W 15 - Roman Handt/Palse

Day Four of SA Fashion Week drew to a close with two collections that were polar opposites.  It highlighted the diversity on offer at Fashion Week yet also showed that there are designers out there who are by no means afraid to push boundaries.

Roman Handt showcased a collection that divided the fashion community more than any of the collections on show this season (including the womanswear).  His range was incredibly daring - drawing on S&M imagery and medieval-inspired torture equipment.  Questions arose about the wearability of his range which we thought was ironic - if a collection is too daring it is shot down as much as one that many may consider too boring.  It will be interesting to see how the clothing on view will translate into ready-to-wear.  

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR

Palse took a chance this season and put aside the geometric motifs we have come to expect from his collections.  It was a very smart move.  The colour palate moved away from his signature black and white and introduced pastels both in plain fabrics and florals.  The traditional suit was thus transformed.  We loved this take on menswear - particularly the floral suits.  Awesome stuff!

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR

SAFW A/W15 - SKIP Collections - Colleen Eitzen/Rubicon

Colleen Eitzen
This collection definitely brought to mind the seasons of Autumn and Winter but provided a good blend between cooler and warmer colours. It made use of damasks, furs, leather detailing as well as an autumnal tree motif that appeared on many items. This collections speaks to the woman who seeks a blend of comfort with touches of glamour; it also incorporated less structured, more loose-fitting garments to somewhat more structured items.

Photo: SA Fashion Week

Photo: SA Fashion Week

Rubicon 

Hangwani Nengovhela's latest collection blended sophisticated daywear elements with evening wear seamlessly. Using limited and mainly neutral colours, this collection brought understated style to the fore with certain quirky design elements such as asymmetrical padding. All in all, a very pleasing collection that many women would feel effortlessly chic in. 

Photo: SA Fashion Week

Photo: SA Fashion Week

SAFW A/W15 - Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs/Mantsho by Palesa Mokubung

Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs

Craig Jacobs' Autumn/Winter collection blended traditional elements with sports luxe detailing. He relied on the use of mesh to add texture  while capturing an innately African image through the use of a traditional blanket. This collection emphasised comfort and wearability. We loved the use of the blanket as a sweater or a skirt and would have liked to have seen even more of this. 

Hues of Blue dominated the collection
Photo: SA Fashion Week

A modern African Man in various guises
Photo: SA Fashion Week

Mantsho by Palesa Mokubung

This collection was inspired by balance: basics balanced out with couture tailoring. It channelled different forms of femininity from Grecian flowing gowns to simpler silhouettes. Bow detail at the collar was a staple of many of the pieces and added an old-world flair to the collection. Hand-crafted detailing and texture stood out while the more dramatic pieces looked great on the runway. As with many collections this season, the collection combined black and white to make the strongest statements. 

A balanced woman has many aspects to her wardrobe
Photo: SA Fashion Week

Some of the more eye-catching moments of the collection
Photo: SA Fashion Week

SAFW A/W15 - House of Ole (with artist Nelson Makano)

Installations are best suited to collections where each individual piece is an artwork and needs to be appreciated, studied and absorbed. It evokes the sensation of walking through a sculpture gallery where one will tend to linger on pieces that magnetise; like all true art, appreciation is necessary. This could not be more true than for Ole Ledimo's latest collection. The collaboration with artist Nelson Makano brought the worlds of art and fashion closer together with incredibly pleasing results. We are a nation of many colours and it is important to find new, original ways of expressing this.

The simplicity of well-cut suits and coats in vibrant colours or with splashes of paint and beautifully-rendered faces made this collection come alive. A mixture of subtle yet clever presentation (and choice of models) meant that the images lived on in our minds long after we left the installation. A firm favourite had to be the houndstooth suit and couch combo: executed beautifully and its allure was the simplicity yet effectiveness of the presentation.

A triumph of the installation
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photography

Art meets fashion
Photo: SA Fashion Week

Quirky details and a sense of masculinity added depth to female attire
Photo: SA Fashion Week

Who says Winter needs to be dull?
Magnificent rich hues were on display
Photo: SA Fashion Week

SAFW A/W15 - Menswear Competition

As with the Renault New Talent Search, it a competitive spirit brought out the best in the designers. The menswear competition did not disappoint and we were thrilled to see some cutting-edge designs coming through. As opposed to being staid, conservative and dressed-down as menswear in South Africa often is portrayed, these collections showed that new blood will bring a dose of vitality to men's fashion and keep guys looking funky and fresh. Just how we like them...

The competing labels were: Plumbum Engineered, Touch of Bling, Meistre House of Design, M4S, Amos Tranque, Kim Gush and Beware The Wolf in Sheep's Clothing

Our thoughts on these collections:

Plumbum Engineered
This sports luxe collection brought together futuristic underwear elements as well as some interesting choices of fabric to bring us a confident, sexy man not afraid of showing off. According to designer Preston Tandy, 'a man that glides through effortless dressing and whose mind is always thinking ahead.'

Plumbum Engineered
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photography

Touch of Bling

Thabo Khumalo created a fitted, modern safari collection in grey instead of the usual khaki with touches of gold. This created an overall pleasing effect: wearable for the modern man while adding some more eye-catching elements such as his gold eyelet detailing. 

Touch of Bling
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photography

Meistre House of Design

This collection by Daniel Meistre brought out less structured suits with interesting lapel detail as well as under-shirts resembling tunics. The organic linens looked easy to wear yet maintained a stylish quality. This collection would appeal to the man who prefers loose-fitting, easy-to-wear garments which maintain a certain sense of panache. 

Meistre House of Design
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photography

M4S (Ministry 4 Style)

The Fetish collection by Luiz DeLaja of M4S was reminiscent of a funky trip to the arctic. It blended futuristic elements with edgy design. The concept of 'fetish' was explored through textures, silhouettes and juxtapositions. 

M4S
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photography

Amos Tranque

This collection brought out futuristic elements in a somewhat retro way. While drawing on 'Personal Space', he invoked ideas about space travel as it would possibly have been depicted in days gone by. Blended with street sensibility, this made for an exceptionally pleasing collection.  

Amos Tranque
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photography

Kim Gush

This collection, entitled 'Babel', brought to mind the blending of masculine and feminine style principles inspired by the likes of Asian designers. It was well-executed and made for a definite style statement of a modern man utterly secure in his masculinity while acknowledging his other sides. 

Kim Gush
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photography

Beware The Wolf In Sheep's Clothing 

Visually captivating and immediately transporting us to another time and place, Andrew Chandler's collection was successful in bringing to mind a men from different eras. A perfect blend of style and artistry, it reminded us of early Vivienne Westwood. 

Beware The Wolf In Sheep's Clothing
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photography

The runners-up were Amos Tranque and Touch of Bling while Beware of The Wolf in Sheep's Clothing scooped the main prize. We couldn't agree more...

SAFW A/W15 - Anneen Henze/Sober/Anmari Honiball/Joel Janse Van Vuuren

This showcase was a difficult one to absorb in one sitting.  The individual ranges were very diverse and seemed at odds with each other.  The general consensus from those attending was very divided.  Some absolutely did not get what certain designers were trying to achieve while others praised the collections that resonated with them.

Anneen Henze drew her inspiration from the Disney movie "Frozen" which was very evident in her palate of ice-white.  There was also a hint of the 20's in this collection with dresses that appeared to have been draped over the models bodies and then stitched in place - particularly in some of the knee length items.

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR

Sober seemed to be updating the 80's silhouette.  Colour blocking was very evident and the clothes were extremely well-crafted and executed.  It was as if the Dynasty-era of power-dressing was back in vogue.  The range was the most ready-to-wear of what we saw in this showcase and, although it was aimed at celebrating a cross-cultural African woman, ethnic prints were kept to a minimum (in some cases only used as the lining on jackets).  The added bold use of colour was a definite plus for us.

Photos : Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

Anmari Honibal chose to play with layering by adding fabrics to her dresses almost in a handcrafted way.  Its no surprise that the idea came to fruition after she experimented with play clay and certain of the clothing embellishements showed this in a very evident way.  This collection provided the most division from fashion critics.  Many did not understand the designs while others thought the crafting was superb.

Photos :  Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

Joel Janse Van Vuuren is famous for his creativity and use of colour.  There was immense anticipation for his latest collection and most were surprised to see that, instead of experimenting with the dyeing techniques for which he is known, Joel chose to limit himself to an entirely white palate.  Oversizing and over-embellishing was very evident.  There was little to indicate what the inspiration behind this collection was, other than the single word "Light".

Photos :  Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

SAFW A/W15 - Miri Fashion/Keys Fashion

Miri Fashion
Continuing with our SA Fashion Week round-up, we review Miri's collection for A/W 15. Coming from a retail environment with a boutique in Parkhurst, Miri caters to a specific clientele. According to designer Mari du Plessis: 'In fashion, as in life, there shouldn't be too many rules. My clothes tend to break many of the fashion conventions, but I believe this is part of what makes them unique and appealing to clients who are in search of something new and inspiring.'

We found the collection to come across as experimental, with various elements incorporated. There were many different textures and fabrics used as well as differing colour palettes. This tended to produce a scattergun approach and thus, on the whole, the collection lacked unifying elements and a single artistic viewpoint. 

Varied colours, fabrics and styles were expressed
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

Keys Fashion
Ryan Keys has been attracting a great deal of attention recently as a result of his extravagant and elaborate gowns. At the SAFW Opening Party, a few celebrities were dressed by Keys Fashion and he attended the party along with none other than Khanyi Mbau who proudly wore one of his dresses. We were interested to see a collection from Keys Fashion for his first showing at SA Fashion Week. 

As expected, the gowns were there and it was evident why he is quickly becoming designer of choice for celebrity events. The dramatic nature of the designs definitely made a couture-like statement. However, we enjoyed some of the more ready-to-wear pieces of the collection. Although more understated, these pieces showed a different side to the designer and we would love to see more of these items in future. After all, girls want to look good at the office too...

Some of the more ready-to-wear pieces
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photo

Feather adornments were a staple of the collection
Photo: Simon Deiner / SDR Photo