SA MENSWEAR WEEK - A/W 2015

During SA Menswear Week, we experienced a proliferation of new talent hitting the runway. You might remember the name Jenevieve Lyons from SA Fashion Week last season. She was one of the participants in the Renault New Talent competition. Despite not wining, Jenevieve is continuing to make great strides forward in the SA fashion industry. The menswear collection showed on the opening night marked that of a designer with a very clear creative vision; this is extraordinarily encouraging to see in such a young designer. The new-age man coming down the runway could best be described as a futuristic nerd: all the trappings of modernity (clean lines and structure) with some of the down-to-earth nature of the college student (sandals and socks and some more flowing garments). All in all, this collection provided a great balance between structure and flow as well as the old and the new. 

JENEVIEVE LYONS
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Equally cutting edge was the latest range from Augustine - no range this season has captured the distinct blend of the sporty with elements of futurism and Asian.  This idea of sporty practicality is a huge trend we have noticed this year.  We particularly loved how texture played a major role - leather jackets offset with knee length sweat pants.

AUGUSTINE
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Another two young designers who showcased as part of the Cape Town Fashion Council showcase were Lukhanyo Mdingi and Rich Mnisi. Lukhanyo Mdingi's collection depicted an effortless urban comfort. The use of chunky knitwear exuded warmth and softness while the tones of white and grey provided an edge. It was great to see the use of sheers and distinct Asian influences, which is a prominent menswear trend in general currently.

LUKHANYO MDINGI
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Rich Mnisi packed quite a punch as usual; this time, he decided to do it in a more hypnotic way (no boxing gloves). His collection brought sleepwear silhouettes to the fore with a distinct emphasis on sexy comfort. As usual, his use of printed fabrics provided the most salient visual impact: the use of blues, whites and blacks with a dash of gold brought out the edge in this collection. He provided interesting (almost conversation piece) silhouettes such as a jacket with exaggerated drooping shoulders.

RICH MNISI
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

CSquared once again displayed their penchant for finely tailored suits.  There were no great shakes in this collection but that is not what we expect from CSquared.  They know and understand their market and what was shown will not disappoint their established clientele.

C SQUARED
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Shaldon Kopman of Naked Ape is a well-established menswear designer who has recently just opened a slick new store in Rosebank, Johannebsurg. And with good reason: he knows what men want. He is able to design items for the fashion-conscious man concerned with fit and detailing while providing tailoring that remains classical and sophisticated. His use of leather detailing definitely elevated certain items beyond the realm of the average garment. Knitwear items were masculine but soft at the same time. A particular favorite was the weall-crafted plaited jersey. Sheldon also played with some draped fabrics creating more flowing silhouettes. As usual, the shoes were a highlight: either highly lacquered or making use of fabrication, they added more dimension to the collection.

NAKED APE
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Craig Port chose a black colour palate and went the "Asian Persuasion" route. Oversized deconstructed coats and judo shirts (complete with long fabric belts) were evident. What was of particular interest is the way Port used flowing, roomy tops but chose tighter fitting trousers - blending last season's skinny silhouette with this season's oversizing.

CRAIG PORT
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Lucky Luke kept the emphasis on comfort with knitwear,  loose fitting, extra-length tees in a colour palette of blacks and whites, aw well as neutral shades. This collection tended towards a hybridisation of formal and casual elements. We liked the crop tops pulled over longer t-shirts. 

LUCKY LUKE
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Kim Govaars of X&O made use of a eye-catching black and white bird pattern; this worked well when opposite colour ways were combined into one seamless look. Once again, this is a comfortable man who requires functional clothing: loose fitting knits, sliders and tracksuit fabrics. The visual motifs elevated this collection: we enjoyed the use of stars and birds. 

X&O
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Bastion Menswear drew on the word 'Fernweh' for inspiration: the intrepid traveller with a thirst for experiencing novel destinations. Travel attire needs to be comfortable and wearable while providing a stylish edge. Earthy tones and  blues grounded this collection. The use of hoodie scarves was an interesting styling element.  

BASTION MENSWEAR
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Craig Jacobs continued to build on the sheer fabric trend for men in the FMBCJ collection. This showing provided a 'sporty tribal' aesthetic. Some of the more sheer items would be for the more daring man to add some extra playfulness to his closet. 

FMBCJ
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Nguni Shades also chose the tailored route.  From cricket blazers to checked overcoats, the look was sharp and cutting edge.  Like Craig Port, belting took the form of the long fabric "karate belt".  The Asian 'kimono' element was also very evident in the work of Mzukisi Mbane - who also chose to add bright colour in his layered ensembles.

NGUNI SHADES
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

MZUKISI MBANE

Closing the inaugural SA Menswear Week was the highly anticipated collection from Ruald Rheeder.  Gone were his figure revealing leather clothes from last year.  Instead we witnessed layered combinations of tunics, trousers and man-dresses.  Other than the coarse linens and cottons evident, Rheeder added elements of crafting via knitted detailing and also infused the current trend towards sheer fabric.

RUALD RHEEDER
Photos : Simon Deiner/SDR Photo