One of the many trends to have emerged from the recent Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks was the rise of unisex clothing. In the past women have always managed to get away with wearing more masculine clothing and turn it into a cultural statement - like the way Diane Keaton did way back in 1977 in the movie Annie Hall - but let a man experiment with female clothing (or even clothing that so much as suggests femininity) and the reaction is not always positive.
So while the lines between male and female continue to blur on the runway, we have to ask whether the local SA market is ready for this.
Yesterday local singer Jimmy Nevis arrived at the J&B Met in an outfit by Kim Gush and Ruald Rheeder that looked like he was wearing a sheer dress under his jacket. We loved the effect and admired the fact that Nevis' look was very fashion forward but public opinion was very divided.
Some of the comments on social media showed that the general public may not take to this look just yet and we are not entirely sure our ultra-conservative society ever will. However, we loved the fact that Jimmy Nevis (and others who are not afraid to push boundaries) stepped up to the plate and looked good doing it. Kudos!
Last year we were invited to participate in the Craft Bra Run to place the spotlight on Breast Cancer Awareness. The event was organised jointly by Craft Restaurant, one of our favourite hangouts in 4th Street, Parkhurst and Lorinda Voges of 4Elements Media.
Members of the public (along with celebs including Jonathan Boynton-Lee, Shashi Naidoo and Jay Anstey) all donned pink bras - yes, the men too - and either ran or walked the length of 4th Street, much to the amusement of passers-by.
Last week fashion designer Rick Owens shocked everyone at
Paris Fashion Week by sending his models out on the runway with their genitalia
on display.
Not even the former enfant terrible, Alexander McQueen ever pushed
the boundaries this far. The whole
incident smacks of the “Rebellion” trend currently sweeping through the fashion
industry. Many people outside fashion circles may not have been familiar with
the name Rick Owens but, thanks to the outrage caused by his recent show, we
may soon find his name up there among the better known designers. So clearly the stunt had its desired effect.
Little cut-outs in exactly the right place and no underwear created the desired effect.
Other outfits left little to the imagination
And the message behind this? Possibly that being rebellious and the shock factor will set you above the rest. That's all very well but isn't this supposed to be about style and taste? Different strokes ....
The fashion world was in a frenzy trying to predict who
would take over as head of Gucci when it was announced that Frida Giannini was departing. We can only assume the recent decline in
fortunes for the fashion house had a lot to do with this decision. Giannini was supposed to remain at the helm
until February (after this month’s 2015 men’s autumn/winter collection was
presented in Milan) but, in a surprise move, she left a month early. That’s when new creative director Alessandro
Michele stepped in and, in record time, created a whole new concept, redesigned
the entire collection - even going so far as to recast the models.
Those in the industry know just what goes into producing a
fashion collection. It takes months of conceptualising, not to mention all the blood,
sweat and tears, so one can only imagine what Michele and his team must have
gone through to pull this off. So just
what was it that clinched the position for Michele? We think it was most likely the fact that that
his creative vision was the complete opposite of Giannini’s . And for a fashion house in trouble, a fresh
approach is the obvious criteria that would be required to reignite public
interest.
Gucci's Autumn/Winter 2015 Collection on the runway at Milan Men's Fashion Week
The revamped range was certainly unexpected. The effeminate models seemed to be an extension
of the overall androgynous tone of the collection, from its blousy shirts with fussy
detailing down to the flowing feminine lines of the trousers – in all, a very
emasculated concept altogether. However
a closer look at the history of Gucci may indicate a clever approach, and
perhaps a very calculated strategy.
Androgynous boys in blouses and sheer effeminate shirt-dresses was the order of the day.
Gucci had enjoyed major success in the 70s. After internal squabbling and ongoing legal
battles saw the Gucci family lose direction in the 1980s, Tom Ford took charge
in the 90s and the brand reached even greater success. Now that things have slowed down again
post-Ford, how do they regain any glory?
Repeating Ford’s formula would only make Alessandro Michele look like a
copycat but perhaps looking further back and recapturing some of that 70s glamour
may be the answer.
Individual pieces resembled authentic 70s female items such as the Ascot Blouse (right) with its bow detail.
It’s just our theory,
but maybe he decided to take the female silhouette of the 70s and add a twist
by reinventing it for the male form. The
concept of 70s androgyny is by no means new;
David Bowie, Marc Bolan and Mick Jagger were just a few of the style
icons of the Glam Rock era to popularise the trend but it had been a look that
was reserved for Gucci’s female customers at the time. By updating it for men
in 2015, they have created something that appears fresh, but with just the
right dose of nostalgia to generate that all important feeling of familiarity.
The silhouette of David Bowie's "Thin White Duke" era wide trousers (left) and "Ziggy Stardust" chiffon shirts (right) was a prominent influence.
The 70s "Poet's Shirt" was a favourite for both men and women as seen here worn by Jacqueline Bisset (left) and Mick Jagger (right). The idea of genderless clothing was a major influence on the latest Gucci Menswear Collection.
The use of androgynous models clearly harks back to Bowie's early days of sexual ambiguity.
The collection was perhaps not as well received as everyone
had hoped but that could be put down to it being a radical move on the part of
Gucci. Many critics have stated that the
deciding factor as to whether Michele’s appointment was a wise move or not,
will be the upcoming Women’s Autumn/Winter 2015 range. We can only but wait and see.
When people are dancing in time to the Hustle, when there are afro wigs everywhere you look and everybody looks like they've been transported from another decade, it can only mean one thing... A far-out, flashback 70s party. We took it to the max with Flying Fish Premium Flavoured Beer at a recent 70s party at the Living Room in Maboneng Precinct...
The perfect beverage for any party
Having a groovy moment with our fab hostess, Shannon
Shane was definitely 'The Man' of the party: looking like a Cool Cat in this 70s getup
We loved this chilled hippie look
Close up moment with some of the girls, Lee-Anne (rocking a pink wig) and Nastassja donning some cool shades
Hey Good Looking! Shannon and Leon were in head-to-toe 70s gear
Far out suspenders dude!
Dyno-mite hair!
Boogie, boogie, boogie
Flying Fish made the evening fab!
We loved the 70s inspired fashion: Like this awesome tasseled skirt worn by Diana
Singing along to our favourite Donna Summer songs...
And getting down on the dance floor to some disco tracks with Sandi
Can you dig it? We totally dig this look!
We had a fantastic time with Flying Fish Premium Flavoured Beer at this 70s party. We'll 'catch you on the flip-side' with a some Flying Fish! #Add Some Flavour to your parties...
In the final installment of our Trends Forecast, we look at a few trends that have developed in our collective mindset. It is only a matter of time before these forms of expression transfer from being social phenomenons to fashion statements. Futurism
The
influence of technology on production techniques is enabling designers to
become more cutting edge than ever before. This includes techniques such as
laser cutting as well as working with fabrics in previously unseen ways. Visual elements are coming to life: on fabric
as well in other spheres, such as motion-sensitive billboards that are
triggered by passers-by.
In our world of visual stimulation, advertising has become more interactive, as this billboard in a Swedish tube station shows. At first the ad appears to be pretty standard until a train passes and triggers a motion sensor.
Visual elements for fashion are becoming more important:
the idea is that your clothing literally has to ‘speak’ for you. The more
daring your choice of wording or print, the more courageous you are in your fashion
choices. Even designers such as Carolina Herrera are re-engineering traditional
motifs such as floral prints in more futuristic ways (so that they almost
appear holographic or 3D) as extension of this trend.
An extension of slogan T-shirts, our formal designer clothing will start to speak for us as this Moschino gown shows.
Fabrics will become more futuristic in composition (synthetic, made made fibres will prevail) and new techniques such as foam injecting fabric - as seen in the latest Alexander Wang collection (left) or subjected to laser embossing as shown in the Calvin Klein 2015 range (right)
Space Age Futurism will become more mainstream as shown in the latest collections from Alexander McQueen (left) and South African designer Jenevieve Lyons (right).
The trend doesn't necessarily need to be too left-of-centre - it can also be expressed in subtle ways. Carolina Herrera's Spring/Summer 2015 range looks fairly conventional but it includes floral motifs that have a 3D or holographic quality.
Rebellion
Socially there is a worldwide
mistrust of government institutions. They are perceived as ineffectual or
corrupt and, coupled with a financial crisis that appears never-ending, this is
leading to an uneasy feeling of anger, helplessness and the idea that chaos is inevitable. In the design sphere this is
already starting to emerge in the way fashion is being displayed. Male models
are sporting more tattoos and not shaving – even going so far as to grow bushy
beards - a look that has now become completely acceptable, not only in fashion but in every day life too.
The growing feeling that the world in general no longer cares about the individual will start to manifest in continued use of our bodies and clothing as ways to express our anger.
Girls now proudly display disheveled hair and a ‘devil may care’
attitude. These elements embody what we would have previously perceived
as anti-establishment. As badly behaved celebrities, such as Miley Cyrus (with
her severely cut unstructured hair) and Justin Bieber (with his "rap-sheet" and array of tattoos), continue to land top
endorsement deals – the idea that being anti-establishment will get you further
will start to manifest itself in a much bigger way in 2015.
Role models now include celebrities who court controversy and are famous less for their artistic achievements but more for their anti-social behaviour as seen in the latest ad campaigns; Courtney Love for Yves Saint Laurent (above), Miley Cyrus for Marc Jacobs (middle) and Justin Bieber for Calvin Klein (below).
The difference between the ripped look of the 70s DIY Punk fashions and its modern counterpart, is that today we are not afraid to abuse designer clothing in our efforts to be rebellious.
In Part 2 of our 2015 Trend Forecast, we look at broad runaway trends that are going to trickle down and start inhabiting our lives. Kick off your heels as we explore some of the trends that will inform what we wear in 2015...
Transparency
The use
of sheer fabrics is certainly on the increase: this means a proliferation of
see-through fabrics which glide effortlessly over the body. Ever since Rihanna caused a stir on the red carpet at
last year’s CFDA Fashion Awards, the fashion pack has been hinting at a
possible trend for see-through clothing. While we initially thought this
might be a bit too risqué for our largely conservative SA market, two local
celebs arrived at the Channel O awards in full-length sheer gowns that left
little to the imagination. We predict the trend will survive into 2015
but perhaps in a more creative, less shocking way; with sheer overlays or
tastefully revealing outfits such as those we have already seen emerging from
local designers Ryan Keys and Joel Janse Van Vuuren (whose latest collection
also showed a continued interest in White as a major color element of purity
and innocence, yet displayed sophistication).
See-Through Sheer: The sheer trend is definitely taking hold. Designers such as Joel Janse Van Vuuren (left) and Wake (right) are some local examples with Christian Dior favouring this trend abroad (middle)
Black Magic:
sheer fabrics in Black are tastefully revealing,
combining futuristic and sophisticated elements
Practicality
Functionality
is going to become the buzz word for 2015. Clothing will be practical and
comfortable without sacrificing style. The deconstructed look will be
prominent: soft trench coats, more flowing fabric, kimono style coats,
oversized clothing with strong Asian elements (particularly for fashion-froward
men). This is a reaction to the skinny figure-hugging
fashion of the last few years. At last year’s SA Fashion Week, this was a major
trend particularly in the designs of Anneen Henze and Mantsho (Palesa
Mokubung). With these designers’ collections ready to go retail this year, we
will see this trend become a major fashion influence.
Asian Persuasion: looser-fitting garments will take centre stage, with flowing, billowing fabric a trend for menswear
In terms
of footwear, the trend remains that of comfort above all else. It's an easy,
pain-free approach to footwear: sandals and sliders, as well as the continued
influence of sporty footwear. The next level of last year’s ‘Sports Luxe’ trend will constitute a
refinement: including a greater focus on the famous polo golfer which will
evoke the concept of ‘Leisure Wear’ when paired with a more formal item such as
a long, flowing skirt or blazer to achieve an effortless blend of preppy comfort
and style.
Happy Feet: Comfortable footwear remains desirable while Leisure Wear and effortlessly stylish sports attire will continue to develop and refine
Pretty Polo: the ever-popular Polo shirt gets is re-invented and combined with Leisure Wear items
Bringing
practicality into a local context, online shopping will become more trendy in
South Africa this year. This trend has certainly been gaining steam for a while
but is only really taking off now in our country. The convenience, ease and the
idea of ‘fashion at your fingertips’ will most certainly become more alluring.
Super-Size Me: Local designers displaying oversizing and comfortable silhouettes, Leigh Schubert (left) and Mantsho (right)
We have looked into our crystal ball and spotted a few trends we feel will dominate the runways and fashion magazines this year as well as one or two trends we feel will influence the way we live in 2015. Today we highlight the first two trends in our series - both of them drawing inspiration from the past.
1970s inspiration – a focus on
craftwork
2015
will display a throwback to 1970s inspired fashion. We will be seeing typical
70s inspired fashion with a twist: high-waisted pants and skirts (as well as a
great focus on the waist in general), more flair in the leg of pants and roomy
denims. This will filter down into hair, which will be much wilder (imagine a
70s music festival) and make-up being more natural, a barely-there look with dewy
skin – a very late 70s trend. Fabrics will include heavy use of
leather and suede as well as denims with embellishments. This will bring
creativity to the fore, with more DIY elements to individualize fashion.
The type of fabric used will be crucial in creating the
70s silhouette and will include knitwear (left) and suede (right)
There
will also be a specific focus on hand-crafted elements: tassels, beading and
techniques such as macrame and appliqué. Knitting and knitted detailing will come forward
again. We are already seeing this from international fashion houses like
Miu Miu and Pucci. This trend is a follow on from the obsession we have with
recycling and our ecological awareness and has resulted in our desire to return
to natural materials and crafting. SA designer, Anmari Honibal’s latest
collection highlights this trend in a very clear way. Her dresses are decorated
with pieces of fabric resembling play-clay.
Crafting and the addition of embellishments will be very
important. Pucci's Spring/Summer 2015 collection (above)
shows a clear 70s influence in terms of crafting and fabric while the
latest print ads from Miu Miu show knitted detailing that looks
hand-made.
The crafting element will also have a modern twist as seen
in the latest collections (from left) Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton
and SA designer Anmari Honibal
The Way We Were
Technology has done much to make our
lives easier and free up time but how many times do you still hear someone say
“I don’t have enough hours in the day to do everything?” More and more people
are reacting against this concept and looking for a bit of “time out”.
They are wistfully looking back to a time when things were slower and
less stressful. A big trend for 2015 will be the appreciation of times
gone by; whether its architecture, cultural
heritage or retro clothing, we will want more of it and we will want to wear
more of it.
Bordering on costume-retro. The trend we are calling "The Way We Were"
is more concerned with a yearning for the simplicity past as opposed to
giving up on technology entirely.
Groups like the guys from Khumbula (a group of artistic
creatives, including the Namibian fashion designer Lourens Gerbhart, who all
look like they have been dressed by their grandfathers from the 50s) will
become extremely influential. While we won't totally discard technology, it
will return to a place of life enhancement as opposed to total encroachment. We feel this trend will be more a lifestyle trend in that we will start to appreciate vintage pieces more - and not just clothing but decor pieces and art.
The personal style of Lourens Gerbhart
is very indicative of this trend.
Taking a break from the stressful corporate lives we all lead
will be highly prized - even if it is to merely catch up on
the latest news before we head back to the laptop, iPad and
time-obsessed world.
For the lucky few who have had
the pleasure of entering the couture aisles of establishments such as Saks 5th
Avenue, Harrods or Galeries Lafayette, you will know the immense thrill of
experiencing items made with exquisite fabrics, incredible tailoring and
precise craftsmanship. This is – for most of us at least – abrief love affair which ends sorrowfully the
moment we leave the store; even though the aching, hollow feeling never quite
leaves us until we own one of those incredible fashion masterpieces.
An individual such as Tarina
Patel has this fantasy shopping experience on a daily basis. Except, for her,
it’s her real life and her very own closet. She merely needs to walk into her
closet and select an item, any item, of clothing. We had the pleasure of going
into Tarina’s closet and after the experience, there was no doubt why she has
been hailed as having ‘one of the most enviable wardrobes in the country.’
A Lionel Smit painting of Tarina
Tarina betrays her girlish
playfulness by deciding to take us through her closet in a pair of Victoria’s
Secret silky shorts and a sweater. Her casual attire evokes an instant pyjama
party scene as we start delving into her formidable closet and spreading
Tarina’s items around the bedroom. As she opens up her closet to us, she also
takes us on a whirlwind tour of her world and reveals aspects of her
personality.
We had a great time going into Tarina's closet
More than anything, it is most
fascinating to hear Tarina’s stories about acquiring the pieces in her
wardrobe. We start off by looking at Tarina’s considerable bag collection. ‘I
love beautiful things and oftentimes, it’s expressed in the bags that I choose
to buy. Truth be told, I am definitely an Hermès family member.’ She goes on to show us a magnificent
collection of Hermès Birkins,
starting with the signature orange Birkin. There is also a one-of-a-kind Birkin
which her husband was lucky enough to procure for Tarina on a trip to Russia. The
process of acquiring certain pieces displays the level of dedication one has to
have when you absolutely must have a particular item as part of your collection,
and Tarina’s stories reflect this (including being at a store in Milan at a
precise time and a rushed trip to St. Tropez all in pursuit of the perfect bag). This creates a wardrobe with a story behind
it which encompasses an individual’s personality and experiences. This is most
certainly true in Tarina’s case.
Tarina's first Hermès Birkin, in signature orange
A keepsake: a pink Chanel bag - Tarina's father bought her this on a trip to the US
This fashion doyenne certainly
has a knack for shopping and for collecting items that would make most
Hollywood celebrities drool with envy. Tarina recounts the story of purchasing
a collector’s edition Chanel jacket in Singapore: ‘the lady at the Chanel store
knows me well because I’m a patron of the brand. She says that she has
something in my size that has just come in and that has been custom-made for
the Singapore Grand Prix and she brings out the most unbelievable Chanel jacket,’
says Tarina, who then goes on to reveal a magnificent flaming-red Chanel jacket. She also related an incident where Karl Lagerfeld himself complimented
her on how she chose to wear a Chanel piece – as one part of a sari ensemble.
Tarina is thus adept at blending Western and Eastern fashion elements
effortlessly.
The red limited-edition Chanel jacket
Tarina’s shoe closet reflects the
crème de la crème most often associated with fashionable footwear: Jimmy Choo,
Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin to name a few. In addition to her fabulous
collection of heels, she also loves her Etro flats and slippers by Valentino.
Her shoe collection is extensive: from killer black Versace boots with a
formidable heel (‘they make me feel a bit like Donatella,’ says Tarina) to
uber-cute fluffy White Dior snow-boots and everything in-between, Tarina is
covered for all seasons and occasions.
Shoe mania - literally a dream closet
The most thrilling part of
Tarina’s closet has to be seeing some of her exquisite dresses. From her shoe
cupboard, she sashays back into her closet to reveal a Dior masterpiece. She
adeptly moves between dress bags to select a magnificent green Oscar de la
Renta gown and then delves swiftly back into her wardrobe to reveal an unusual
Alexander McQueen dress which she was seen in at the Glamour Women of the
Year awards in 2014. Lanvin to Valentino, Tarina’s closet has them all: it is
evident that her passion for fashion is endless.
A finely crafted Dior dress
Tarina loves her Oscar de la Renta pieces. Here, she shows us a green dress worn by Freida Pinto to a premiere
One of Tarina's Alexander McQueen gowns
Another signature Oscar de la Renta dress with magnificent detailing
Not only was it a pleasure seeing Tarina's closet but the woman herself is delightful, engaging and incredibly stylish
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