Over 30 established and emerging South African designers presented their collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Joburg last week in which the latest trends for the country’s autumn/winter season were revealed. Naturally we were there to see what made it on the runway and what failed in this "highlights package".
Tsotetsi KL impressed with a 70s inspired range of clothing sticking to a palate of royal blue. We loved the abundant use of laser cut designs but must comment that the type of fabric used for this detailing might not have been ideal. We noticed that certain garments where the cut-out were used were tearing so perhaps a stronger, more durable fabric might have done the trick.
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| Photos : AFI |
Marianne Fassler used her artistic vision to transform denim: deconstructed pieces graced the runway using denim in novel ways. This gave the collection a rebellious and youthful feel. She also provided some touches of more overt glamour with faux fur and lace as well as artfully pieced together panels of coloured fabric.
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| Photos : Simon Deiner SDR Photos |
Lumin's latest collection provided a strong visual viewpoint utilising geometric prints on various fabrics. The strength of this collection was its consistency and adherence to evoking a particular aesthetic.
Tart brought certain 70s elements to the fore. A special mention goes to the fully tasseled coat dress: a definite showstopper for the amount of effort required by the designer.
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| Photos: AFI |
Tart brought certain 70s elements to the fore. A special mention goes to the fully tasseled coat dress: a definite showstopper for the amount of effort required by the designer.
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| Photos : Simon Deiner SDR Photos |
Ruald Rheeder drew on the current popular culture phenomenon, 'Fifty Shades of Grey' for inspiration. This made sense considering the obsession with an evasive male figure such as Christian Grey. However, the inspiration behind the collection was too literal at points and made for a very direct interpretation of the theme. This didn't prevent some of the male models from looking incredibly hot in cool colours.
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| Photos: AFI |
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| Photos: AFI |
Leigh Schubert continued with the 70's theme choosing to embellish with tassles - a hot trend this year. Her collection also displayed the current trend for sheer fabrics. The colour palette remained in the peach hues with the addition of black.
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| Photos : Simon Deiner SDR Photos |
The AFI NXTGEN show was held offsite at the Johannesburg Art Gallery. Sadly, this venue did not do the fashion justice. Nonetheless, we were excited to see new pieces from these upcoming designers. Rich Mnisi created a 'modern retro' look with his use of fabrication while Akedo made use of tassel detail in intricate ways to create interesting pieces. L.A.N.D also displayed a new collection. We expect big things for these talented young creatives.
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| L.A.N.D (left) and Akedo (right) Photos: AFI |
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| OATH by Rich Mnisi Photos: AFI |
Scalo presented menswear as well as womenswear items in their collection. The collection relied on vibrant reds as well as vivid patterned fabrics. We liked the textured fabrics which connoted a definite Winter feeling. This collection required some extra daring to take it to the next level.
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| Photos: AFI |
Samantha Constable injected a bit a drama before her show even got underway with a slightly controversial video clip highlighting terror and violence - a theme that inspired her new collection. Her sentiments were heartfelt and added the raw edginess her collections always display.
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| Photos : AFI |
Selfie brought an incredibly well-curated collection to the runway. Considering this curated presentation, it was unsurprising to see that the collection drew on famous art for inspiration - think Miro, Kandinsky and Keith Haring. All in all, this collection was incredibly wearable and retail ready while maintaining a definite fashionable personality.
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| Photos: AFI |
Shana had many playful moments. We enjoyed the emphasis on crafting and motifs such as cupcakes (reminiscent of Louis Vuitton's similar play with kitchen utensil prints). This collection could have been more streamlined.
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| Photos: AFI |
Suzaan Heyns cultivated a sense of high drama with her collection. She drew on a muted palette but made use of flowing silhouettes and many silky fabrics. This collection certainly showed off this designer's strengths: her ability to portray a powerful and stylish woman in fluid strokes.
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| Photos: AFI |
NN Vintage went all out to impress. The debut range from Mafikizolo's Nhlanhla Nciza was perhaps not a cohesive collection but with a show containing dancing and singing and an array of celebs (such as Babalwa Mneno, LeAnne Dlamini and Khanyi Mbau) on the runway, it certainly injected a good dose of entertainment and spectacle. In our mind this alone made the show unmissable.
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| Photos : AFI |
Fabiani closed the week with a show entitled "A Return To Form" drawing inspiration from vintage motorsport. Natural fibres contrasted with nylon and patent leather to add an urban feel to the collection. Although the collection was based in suiting (as are all collections from this label), we particularly liked the addition of patterned jackets and trousers.
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| Photos : Simon Deiner SDR Photo |
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